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  • How to Identify and Treat Spider Mites on Orchids?

    Spider Mites are microscopic creatures, they’re impossible to detect until they’ve wreaked their damage. A plant under attack will have a silvery shine on the underside the leaves, indicating the loss of sap. It is important to use a spider mite treatment as soon as possible on an affected plant in order to keep the plant looking its best and healthiest. Types and their Identification: Brevipalpus Californicus: The first observable injury from this mite feeding on orchid leaves appears as silvery areas that eventually become sunken and brown. Individuals of B. californicus are difficult to see because they lie flat against the leaf and move slowly. Phalaenopsis mite (Tenuipalus pacificus): This is one of the false spider mites, which do not spin webs. This mite is a pest in California, Florida, Panama and some European countries. Feeding by these mites causes dark spots on leaves and eventual tissue death. Two-spotted Spider Mite, also known as the Red Spider Mite (Tetranychus urticae) These mites are greenish-yellow, wingless, eight-legged creatures with a dark spot on each side of their bodies. They feed on leaf undersides and suck the chlorophyll out of plant cells. These mites thrive when plants are stressed under warm, dry conditions, but they are less of a problem under conditions of high humidity. Two-spotted spider mites are most often found on new growth and on thin-leaf orchids. A good way to tell if you have mites is to wipe a white cloth or tissue over both sides of a leaf of a plant suspected of mite infestation. If mites or their eggs are present, reddish or brownish streaks will be seen on the cloth. Another test is to tap a leaf over a piece of white paper and see if any of the dislodged particles move. A good magnifying glass is recommended with this test. Mites can severely weaken plants, as well as disfiguring them. Mites damage orchids by removing sap and chlorophyll with their needlelike mouthparts. It is this withdrawal of chlorophyll that results in the characteristic blanching and silvery appearance of the leaf. Their sap sucking can also cause bruised-looking areas on flowers. Because of their feeding style, they are also potential vectors of diseases. Prevention: The first line of defense against mites is to raise the humidity in the growing environment. Mites are usually most severe on plants in heated greenhouses or in the home during the winter, when the air is quite dry and there are no natural enemies to keep them under control. The best prevention for any plant problems, whether pest-related or disease-related, is to keep your plants as healthy as is possible. The more healthy your plant is, the better it will resist. If you are growing houseplants or have plants inside a greenhouse or grow room, remove any dust from the plant’s leaves at least once a week with a lightly-moistened cloth. That tends to prevent mite infestation since you’re regularly cleaning the leaves. Treatment: Remove leaves that are heavily infested. Clean the plant. Use mixture of alcohol and water to remove and kill visible spider mites. Dilute 1 cup of alcohol in 30 oz of water and pour this solution in the spray bottle. Spray both sides of leaves well and wipe them off with the paper towel. Most insecticides have little effect on mites, but a number of chemicals (called acaricides or miticides) are developed specifically for mite control. These are useful in controlling large populations of mites. We recommend using Oberon Insecticide to treat mites Infestation. Dilute 0.5 ml of Oberon per litre of water and spray on the leaves of the infected plant once in seven days until it cures. Plants with mite damage to only a few leaves will recover quickly and without special care, but those with more significant damage will become stressed and require extra attention. Make sure that all plants get the necessary amount of sunlight for the variety. Feed plants a balanced fertilizer, Such as 20-20-20 until the plant starts producing new, healthy leaves, avoid transplanting or making any major changes to the plant environment.

  • How to Grow: Grammatophyllum Orchid Care

    General Information The generic name Grammatophyllum is derived from the Greek words gramma, meaning "a mark or character," and phyllum, "a leaf." This probably refers to the varied markings on the petals and sepals of the flowers, which resulted in Grammatophyllum frequently being called the "Letter Plants." The species produce several racemes, arising from the base of the pseudobulb, with many yellow-green to olive-green, waxy flowers with dark purplish-red marks. This epiphytic genus occurs in the dence rainforest from Indo-China to Indonesia, the Philippines, New Guinea, and the Southwest Pacific Islands. There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous. The second has rather short thick pseudobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the pseudobulbs. The pseudobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum Species are generally yellow and brown. Grammatophyllum Orchids are not only the biggest Orchids in the world, they’re the Fastest-Growing Orchids Light Requirements Grammatophyllum grows well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. The conditions are similar to Dendrobium and Cattleya, which means that 60-80% of sunlight. Lime green-coloured foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching its full blooming potential. Yellow-coloured foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter. A light green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates the maximum amount of sun the plant can take, and a dark green leaf indicates not enough sun. Temperature Requirements Grammatophyllum will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they get cool, mild night temperatures between 10-18 °C. Cold weather, even down to minus 2°C for a few hours each night, will not damage an acclimatised plant, but once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from such low temperatures. Regardless, plants should always be kept free of frost. The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 24 to 30°C during the day and 13 to 16°C at night. At higher temperatures, air circulations and humidity must be increased, or damage can occur. "The Higher the Temperature, the Greater the Plant's need for Humidity" Water Requirements Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in the medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness before re-watering. In the warmer periods, several watering a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. Require plenty of water and high humidity during the growing season. All species come from distinct wet/dry habitats. Less water is required during the cooler months. "The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build-up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth" We suggest watering every third day or twice a week during the hot summer months(not suitable for mounted plants). They should not be allowed to go completely dry, yet they don't care for a soggy environment either. We suggest watering once a week in the winter and early spring months when the weather is colder. Lesser the media, more frequent should be the watering. After you have watered your orchid, it is really important to make sure that the plant is well-drained on regular intervals and to ensure that the roots are not left standing in water for long. The roots won’t tolerate this and can result in root rot if you do. Humidity Requirements Grammatophyllum love warm and very humid weather. The humidity level should be at least 50% or higher. Increase the amount of humidity in the summer months. This can be done by misting on the surrounding area or letting stagnant water far below the plants (in its natural habitat it gets morning dew that gathers in a pool on the branches of trees and if you notice the roots are tiny light-colored but multiple, it absorbs the water and stores it in the large bulbs for dry spells). Make sure the plants have good air circulation. This will help prevent fungus, insect problems, and mold from forming on the leaves. In humid climates, as in greenhouses, it is imperative that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. Many people advise spraying your orchids with a mist of water to increase the humidity levels in the air in the direct vicinity of the orchid. This is generally not a good idea, as it is an inefficient way of increasing local humidity levels, and water will gather on the leaves and flowers. This can lead to mold spots developing on the leaves, or more commonly on the petals of the flowers. Simply put, you can use misting to raise the humidity but its not recommended for watering your orchid plants. Fertilizer Requirements Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. We suggest using a balance type fertilizer 20-20-20 or 15-15-15. From Spring through early Fall, fertilising every seven days, with several clear watering in between. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once every other week. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build-up. Grammatophyllum are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate the concern of salt build-up in the medium, at the same time organic fertilizers decompose much, thus, one should constantly check for fungus and pests. Before fertilizing, you should water the plants soaked, about 10 minutes later, then fertilize the fertilizer, so the plant absorbs better fertilizer. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Use only on its Vegetative Phase Blooming Grammatophyllum are one of the longest blooming orchid genera, producing flowers that last from 2 to 6 months before dropping. Normally, Grammatophyllum orchids need to have a lot of mature pseudobulbs to flowering. If the plant is too young, you should not promote its flowering by using more fertilizer phosphate, because the plant will grow slowly and can not flower. And the plant also needs time to adapt to the living environment in your home. Pruning for Re-Bloom Grammatophyllum orchids rebloom on old spikes with a new stalk emerging from a triangular node along the stalk. To trigger re-blooming, your orchid will need a little more attention than what you usually give it. The thrill when your orchid blooms for a second time, however, makes the small investment in time and effort required to trigger orchid reblooming well worth the effort. Steps to Trigger Re-blooming: Reduce irrigation for about two weeks to create a dry period for the plant. If you regularly irrigate the plants once a day, then now take, 1-2 days to water once. Only irrigate the roots, do not irrigate the leaves. Then fertilize 0-52-34 (MPK) to stimulate flowering for 3-4 consecutive weeks. After a drought, the plant will absorb the fertilizer very well. Pseudobulbs will quickly get old enough to accumulate energy to prepare flowers. Continue to reduce irrigation for about 2 weeks. After this fertilizer application, if you don't see any spikes coming, start watering as usual and prepare the plant for next vegetative phase. Potting, Media and Propagation There are two main reasons why a Grammatophyllum orchid may need re-potted. The first is when the growing media starts to break down and decompose. The second is when the roots outgrow the pot the orchid is growing in. Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is, after all, flowering has ceased, and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, warm water soaks for 10 minutes, which will make most very pliable and easier to remove from the container. When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four pseudobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. When planted in small pots, the plants will produce better flowers, and the roots of the plant tend to grow opposite to the gravity dimension and will spread out into a sphere. After that, dry out, reduce irrigation for the first 7-10 days to help the plant heal wounds. "Newly Re-potted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for few weeks" Orchids generally prefer to be root constrained, so don’t change to a larger pot than necessary. The roots of orchids contribute to photosynthesis and energy generation, so giving the roots access to light enables them to contribute to the overall health and strength of the plant. As the roots gain a lot of moisture and nutrients directly from the air, having plenty of ventilation and drainage holes will enable good air circulation to the roots of your orchid. The most common growing media to use is a tree bark-based mix, although any fast-draining medium such as Coconut husk chips could be a viable alternative. The plant will thrive much better with a smaller volume of healthy roots, than a larger volume of roots with a diseased or unhealthy section. Pests and Other Grammatophyllum Related Problems *External Link

  • How to Grow: Catasetum Orchid care

    General Overview: The Catasetum Orchid is a beautiful vivid orchid species that is prized by growers for its versatility and beauty. This orchid is fairly easy to grow if you can replicate the correct conditions. Almost always deciduous, the pseudobulbous plants have strict growing and resting periods that they cycle through each year. These vivid plants originate in Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, South America, and Central America where they can grow in sand, rocky conditions, and near ant colonies. This orchid develops fleshy waxy flowers, and the plants are unisex, which is rare in orchids. The male plants are identified by their bright colours and large size while the female plants are a yellow-green colour and have a smaller stature. Another distinguishing trait that sets this species apart is its ability to eject its pollen directly onto its pollinators. This care guide can be related to all Catasetums, Cycnodes and Clowesetums. Growth Cycle: Understanding the Catasetinae growth cycle is the key to successful culture. When the plants are in active growth, maintain a fairly constant root zone moisture and fertilise regularly to optimize new growth. When the plants are dormant little or no water is needed as the pseudobulbs store sufficient water and nutrients to survive their winter rest. Early Season: Catasetums begin their new growth cycle in winter to early spring. Once you see new growth, re-pot your plants into new medium. Last year's roots seem to deteriorate during dormancy and are not as effective as the new roots at taking water and nutrients. Whether or not you repot, do not water your plant until the new growth has well developed new roots. Your roots should be 8 to 12 cms long, so for the sake of simplicity, do not water until your new top growth is 8 to 12 cms tall. This cannot be emphasised enough. Do not water until the new growth has become well established. Mid-Season: New roots are established and the plants are rapidly developing their new pseudobulbs. The growth spurt during this 3 to 4 month period is surprising, often the plants will double in size. To keep pace with their growth rate, the plants require constant moisture and regular fertilization. Normally you will water 2 or 3 times a week. A balanced fertilizer at full strength is suitable for this rapid growth or you can top dress with a controlled release fertilizer and apply water soluble fertilizers at a dilute rate, say 2 grams per Litre. Light levels at or above those suggested for Cattleyas will help insure strong good growth and flowering. The fruits of your labor will begin to pay off as the flowering season begins. Late Season: In the late autumn the plants will begin to enter the dormancy phase, caused by the maturity of the pseudobulb, shorter day length, cooler day/night temperatures and a reduction of root zone moisture. The first signals you will observe on your plants are yellowing and browning off of the leaves. As a general rule, this will happen by mid-November, at which time you will stop fertilizing them and reduce watering by half. When all the leaves have dropped or by the end of December, stop watering the plants. Watering during dormancy should only be done it the plant bulbs shrivel severely. Usually a single irrigation is sufficient to restore the bulbs. Light Requirements: Catasetum orchids are sun-loving plants, and in their natural habitats many species grow prolifically in full sunlight. Unless the strong air movement as found in the natural habitat is available, the grower should provide some shade as well. For the surge of new growth in the springtime, Catasetum plants should be positioned to receive all the sunlight that they can tolerate, depending on their origin, but as their pseudobulbs mature, thought should be given to whether male or female flowers are desired. Catasetums are known to produce male or female flowers based on the amount of light and humidity they are subject to.  High light and low moisture tend to induce production of female flowers while low light and high humidity produce male flowers. A few species, such as Catasetum Cernuum, Catasetum Hookeri, Catasetum Longifolium, and Catasetum Rooseveltianum, should be grown in moderate to deep shade. Temperature Requirements: These orchids are native to hot tropical areas and grow during the rainy summer months. During this growing period, day temperatures of 27°C to 38° C and night temperatures of 16° to 18° C are beneficial. After growths mature, temperatures can be reduced to 12° C at night, with day temperatures of 21° to 30° C. In general for all but a few species, the grower can regard 18°C as the ideal minimum night temperature and not to be overly concerned about daytime highs as long as they stay below 39°C. Water Requirements : Catasetums require plenty of water during their growth phase.  This starts when new growths appear with the onset of the pre-monsoon showers.  Watering should be gradually increased as they mature by the end of the monsoon.  Once the pseudobulbs are mature, watering should be reduced and tapered down until they start dropping their leaves which is an indication that water should be withheld completely except occasionally to prevent shrinking of their pseudobulbs.  It is at this time that they will come into bloom. All mounted, basket-grown, and unconventionally potted Catasetums may be watered every sunny day during the growing season, provided conditions are such that they dry off relatively quickly. In the case of conventionally potted adult plants, it should not be necessary to water more than once or, at most, twice a week. These species like to dry out at least slightly between waterings. When you water, do so thoroughly, allowing the water to flow freely from the bottom of the pot after saturating the entire contents or penetrating the entire root mass of mounted and basket-grown plants. "A good rule of thumb is that the more leaf surface and root system a plant has, the more water it requires" Humidity Requirements : Catasetum orchid tolerate an environment with 40 - 60 % relative humidity during their growing season, but for optimal development of new growth and flowering, 70 % is recommended. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist. Higher humidity increases the plants' ability to withstand and benefit from their quota of light, and it also slows the evaporation of moisture from the potting medium in which they grow. Higher humidity also reduces the likelihood of spider mite attacks, since the little critters prefer warm and dry conditions. Fertilizer Requirements : Catasetum orchids have a reputation of being heavy feeders while actively growing, and the concept of heavy feeding should be applied both to the strength of the fertilizer and to the frequency of fertilizing. The standing goal should be to push the plants to the limit, to make them as strong, healthy, and dynamic as possible. Fertilize with an appropriate formulation at least every week during the growing season, or fertilize with a weak formula every time the plants are watered. Use a high nitrogen formulation (such as 30-10-10) with a full range of trace elements while plants are in active growth, slowly tapering off as pseudobulbs form. As the leaves begin to unfurl, and well before flowering, add a high-phosphorus formula to develop big, strong pseudobulbs capable of producing robust inflorescences. Any of the soluble products with a large second-digit number of N:P:K constitute a good source of phosphorus. A blossom- booster formulation should be used in the autumn, except for plants that normally bloom in the spring. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Only on Mid Season High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Towards the end of Mid Season Potting , Media and Propagation : Potting should be timed to coincide with the initiation of new growth, usually in the spring. New roots will be produced quickly at that time, and plants will experience minimal setback. These plants have vigorous root systems and require a rich, moist potting medium such as coconut husk chips during the growing season. Many growers bare-root their plants during the resting period to ensure dryness at that time. Fine-grade media are common for smaller pots; medium-grade media are used only in larger pots. Sphagnum moss is used successfully for plants in many areas, as it provides tremendous water- and fertilizer-holding capacities. When well grown, these orchids can be divided down to one mature pseudobulb and will then flower on the next mature growth. Hanging the pots or mounts is best because it provides good air movement around the plants. Remember that mounted, plants will require more frequent watering - two or more time per day in the hottest season. A good compromise is to place the plants in pots that are suspended. This offers advantages of both pots and mounts.  Some people prefer to re-pot their plants every year at the beginning of the growth period for best results. "Most plants have a dormant period and, when it occurs, it must be recognised and respected" Pests and Other Catasetum Related Problems : Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Catasetum are common because of the levels of humidity and substrate they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link

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  • Bulbophyllum Mastersianum Care Key | Guna Orchids

    < Back Bulbophyllum Mastersianum Bulbophyllum Mastersianum is a small sized, hot to warm growing epiphyte with clustered, ovoid, obscurely angled pseudobulbs carrying a single, apical, erect to suberect, oblong, subobtuse, attenuate below, coriaceous, broad leaf that blooms in the spring on a basal, to 12" [30 cm] long, curved or sub-erect, inflorescence with an umbel of a few to several [6 to 10] flowers. It is Commonly known as Venus Fan Bulbophyllum that produces yellow-colored flower clusters in groups of 7 to 10 in a fan-like structure. CARE key GENUS BULBOPHYLLUM TYPE SPECIES NATIVITY VIETNAM ELEVATION 0 to 500 M DECODING FOOT CANDLES(fc): A foot-candle, is a measurement of light intensity. One foot-candle is defined as enough light to saturate a one-foot square with one lumen of light. Rather than measuring the amount of light that leaves a light source (lumen output), foot-candle measurements focus on the amount of light that reaches a surface area. Well, lets not get too much technical. ​ Let's understand it quickly with some comparisons, ​ Typical foot-candle reading for unobstructed sunlight - 10,000 fc ( imagine you are at the beach under clear sky ) Sunshine on a cloudy day - 100 fc ( imagine a day when you feel its about to rain but there is diffused sunshine ) Residential space (living) - 5-40 fc ( when your doors and windows are shut as you are using air conditioner ) ​ That means, when we use a 50% shade net under the clear sky conditions, it is around 5000 fc that the surface receives. Under all weather conditions the 50% shade net on an average will allow 2500 - 3000 fc to fall on a square-foot of surface area. ​ And for those who have a lux meter (light meter) at home, remember that One foot-candle equals 10.76 lumens/lux. ​ UNDERSTANDING RELATIVE HUMIDITY: Relative humidity is the ratio of how much water vapour is in the air and how much water vapour the air could potentially contain at a given temperature. It varies with the temperature of the air: colder air can hold less vapour. So changing the temperature of air can change the relative humidity. ​ Relative humidity is normally expressed as a percentage; a higher percentage means that the air–water mixture is more humid. At 100% relative humidity, the air is saturated. ​ Relative humidity only considers the invisible water vapour. Mists, clouds, fogs and aerosols of water do not count towards the measure of relative humidity of the air. IMPORTANT NOTE: The factual information given on dynamic variable such as watering is irrespective of the media used for planting the orchid. That is, Imagine that the watering frequency given above is for a bare rooted specimen of this variety. Therefore, this watering frequency varies and has to be followed in accordance with the media used. More the quick drying tendency of the media more frequent the watering shall be. For example, charcoal/wood dries quicker than coconut husk/sphagnum Moss. The elevation (above sea level) provided is to understand the level of Humidity available at the original natural habitat of the particular Species or Hybrid. Generally, higher the altitude, lesser will be the natural levels of relative humidity available for your plant to utilise. Thus, there might be a need to improve humidity artificially. The best things about orchids are, these wonders are capable of adapting to any extreme changes in weather conditions provided their time, energy and initial support to assimilate to the new growing conditions. Thus there is no universal care guide for Orchid care. Their potency cannot be contained within these generalisations and the factual information. But we hope these details help you understand the basic requirements and natural demand of a particular Species or Hybrid. << Previous Next >> DISCLAIMER Except as permitted by the copyright law applicable to you, you may not reproduce or communicate any of the content on this page, including files downloadable from this website, without the permission of the copyright owner. ​ © Guna Orchids [2019-2022]. All Rights Reserved.

  • Trichocentrum Stacyi Care Key | Guna Orchids

    < Back Trichocentrum Stacyi Trichocentrum Stacyi orchid, also called Stacy's Oncidium. It is a medium-sized, hot growing epiphyte with ovoid-cylindric pseudobulbs that are enveloped by several pairs of small scarious imbricate bracts with a single, apical, pendant, channeled, apex pointed, lightly arcuate, stiffly coriaceous, terete leaf. It blooms in the spring on a basal, lightly fractiflex, erect to arcuate, 8" (20 cm) long, racemose inflorescence, with 5 to 6 small lanceolate bracts and a floral bract with many showy flowers. CARE key GENUS TRICHOCENTRUM TYPE SPECIES NATIVITY PERU ELEVATION 0 to 450 M DECODING FOOT CANDLES(fc): A foot-candle, is a measurement of light intensity. One foot-candle is defined as enough light to saturate a one-foot square with one lumen of light. Rather than measuring the amount of light that leaves a light source (lumen output), foot-candle measurements focus on the amount of light that reaches a surface area. Well, lets not get too much technical. ​ Let's understand it quickly with some comparisons, ​ Typical foot-candle reading for unobstructed sunlight - 10,000 fc ( imagine you are at the beach under clear sky ) Sunshine on a cloudy day - 100 fc ( imagine a day when you feel its about to rain but there is diffused sunshine ) Residential space (living) - 5-40 fc ( when your doors and windows are shut as you are using air conditioner ) ​ That means, when we use a 50% shade net under the clear sky conditions, it is around 5000 fc that the surface receives. Under all weather conditions the 50% shade net on an average will allow 2500 - 3000 fc to fall on a square-foot of surface area. ​ And for those who have a lux meter (light meter) at home, remember that One foot-candle equals 10.76 lumens/lux. ​ UNDERSTANDING RELATIVE HUMIDITY: Relative humidity is the ratio of how much water vapour is in the air and how much water vapour the air could potentially contain at a given temperature. It varies with the temperature of the air: colder air can hold less vapour. So changing the temperature of air can change the relative humidity. ​ Relative humidity is normally expressed as a percentage; a higher percentage means that the air–water mixture is more humid. At 100% relative humidity, the air is saturated. ​ Relative humidity only considers the invisible water vapour. Mists, clouds, fogs and aerosols of water do not count towards the measure of relative humidity of the air. IMPORTANT NOTE: The factual information given on dynamic variable such as watering is irrespective of the media used for planting the orchid. That is, Imagine that the watering frequency given above is for a bare rooted specimen of this variety. Therefore, this watering frequency varies and has to be followed in accordance with the media used. More the quick drying tendency of the media more frequent the watering shall be. For example, charcoal/wood dries quicker than coconut husk/sphagnum Moss. The elevation (above sea level) provided is to understand the level of Humidity available at the original natural habitat of the particular Species or Hybrid. Generally, higher the altitude, lesser will be the natural levels of relative humidity available for your plant to utilise. Thus, there might be a need to improve humidity artificially. The best things about orchids are, these wonders are capable of adapting to any extreme changes in weather conditions provided their time, energy and initial support to assimilate to the new growing conditions. Thus there is no universal care guide for Orchid care. Their potency cannot be contained within these generalisations and the factual information. But we hope these details help you understand the basic requirements and natural demand of a particular Species or Hybrid. << Previous Next >> DISCLAIMER Except as permitted by the copyright law applicable to you, you may not reproduce or communicate any of the content on this page, including files downloadable from this website, without the permission of the copyright owner. ​ © Guna Orchids [2019-2022]. All Rights Reserved.

  • Ascocentrum Christensonianum Care Key | Guna Orchids

    < Back Ascocentrum Christensonianum Ascocentrum Christensonianum is also called Christenson's Ascocentrum. It is a miniature to medium sized, hot to warm growing, monopodial epiphyte that has an erect stem enveloped completely by leaf bearing sheaths carrying strap shaped, acutely tridenticulate apically leaves. The leaves are long and wide. Their color is fern-green when they grow in shade, but they get intense red when they grow in full sun. It blooms in the spring and fall on an erect, axillary, long, several flowered inflorescence. CARE key GENUS ASCOCENTRUM TYPE SPECIES NATIVITY VIETNAM ELEVATION 100 to 700 M DECODING FOOT CANDLES(fc): A foot-candle, is a measurement of light intensity. One foot-candle is defined as enough light to saturate a one-foot square with one lumen of light. Rather than measuring the amount of light that leaves a light source (lumen output), foot-candle measurements focus on the amount of light that reaches a surface area. Well, lets not get too much technical. ​ Let's understand it quickly with some comparisons, ​ Typical foot-candle reading for unobstructed sunlight - 10,000 fc ( imagine you are at the beach under clear sky ) Sunshine on a cloudy day - 100 fc ( imagine a day when you feel its about to rain but there is diffused sunshine ) Residential space (living) - 5-40 fc ( when your doors and windows are shut as you are using air conditioner ) ​ That means, when we use a 50% shade net under the clear sky conditions, it is around 5000 fc that the surface receives. Under all weather conditions the 50% shade net on an average will allow 2500 - 3000 fc to fall on a square-foot of surface area. ​ And for those who have a lux meter (light meter) at home, remember that One foot-candle equals 10.76 lumens/lux. ​ UNDERSTANDING RELATIVE HUMIDITY: Relative humidity is the ratio of how much water vapour is in the air and how much water vapour the air could potentially contain at a given temperature. It varies with the temperature of the air: colder air can hold less vapour. So changing the temperature of air can change the relative humidity. ​ Relative humidity is normally expressed as a percentage; a higher percentage means that the air–water mixture is more humid. At 100% relative humidity, the air is saturated. ​ Relative humidity only considers the invisible water vapour. Mists, clouds, fogs and aerosols of water do not count towards the measure of relative humidity of the air. IMPORTANT NOTE: The factual information given on dynamic variable such as watering is irrespective of the media used for planting the orchid. That is, Imagine that the watering frequency given above is for a bare rooted specimen of this variety. Therefore, this watering frequency varies and has to be followed in accordance with the media used. More the quick drying tendency of the media more frequent the watering shall be. For example, charcoal/wood dries quicker than coconut husk/sphagnum Moss. The elevation (above sea level) provided is to understand the level of Humidity available at the original natural habitat of the particular Species or Hybrid. Generally, higher the altitude, lesser will be the natural levels of relative humidity available for your plant to utilise. Thus, there might be a need to improve humidity artificially. The best things about orchids are, these wonders are capable of adapting to any extreme changes in weather conditions provided their time, energy and initial support to assimilate to the new growing conditions. Thus there is no universal care guide for Orchid care. Their potency cannot be contained within these generalisations and the factual information. But we hope these details help you understand the basic requirements and natural demand of a particular Species or Hybrid. << Previous Next >> DISCLAIMER Except as permitted by the copyright law applicable to you, you may not reproduce or communicate any of the content on this page, including files downloadable from this website, without the permission of the copyright owner. ​ © Guna Orchids [2019-2022]. All Rights Reserved.

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