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Spider Mites are microscopic creatures, they’re impossible to detect until they’ve wreaked their damage. A plant under attack will have a silvery shine on the underside the leaves, indicating the loss of sap. It is important to use a spider mite treatment as soon as possible on an affected plant in order to keep the plant looking its best and healthiest. Types and their Identification: Brevipalpus Californicus: The first observable injury from this mite feeding on orchid leaves appears as silvery areas that eventually become sunken and brown. Individuals of B. californicus are difficult to see because they lie flat against the leaf and move slowly. Phalaenopsis mite (Tenuipalus pacificus): This is one of the false spider mites, which do not spin webs. This mite is a pest in California, Florida, Panama and some European countries. Feeding by these mites causes dark spots on leaves and eventual tissue death. Two-spotted Spider Mite, also known as the Red Spider Mite (Tetranychus urticae) These mites are greenish-yellow, wingless, eight-legged creatures with a dark spot on each side of their bodies. They feed on leaf undersides and suck the chlorophyll out of plant cells. These mites thrive when plants are stressed under warm, dry conditions, but they are less of a problem under conditions of high humidity. Two-spotted spider mites are most often found on new growth and on thin-leaf orchids. A good way to tell if you have mites is to wipe a white cloth or tissue over both sides of a leaf of a plant suspected of mite infestation. If mites or their eggs are present, reddish or brownish streaks will be seen on the cloth. Another test is to tap a leaf over a piece of white paper and see if any of the dislodged particles move. A good magnifying glass is recommended with this test. Mites can severely weaken plants, as well as disfiguring them. Mites damage orchids by removing sap and chlorophyll with their needlelike mouthparts. It is this withdrawal of chlorophyll that results in the characteristic blanching and silvery appearance of the leaf. Their sap sucking can also cause bruised-looking areas on flowers. Because of their feeding style, they are also potential vectors of diseases. Prevention: The first line of defense against mites is to raise the humidity in the growing environment. Mites are usually most severe on plants in heated greenhouses or in the home during the winter, when the air is quite dry and there are no natural enemies to keep them under control. The best prevention for any plant problems, whether pest-related or disease-related, is to keep your plants as healthy as is possible. The more healthy your plant is, the better it will resist. If you are growing houseplants or have plants inside a greenhouse or grow room, remove any dust from the plant’s leaves at least once a week with a lightly-moistened cloth. That tends to prevent mite infestation since you’re regularly cleaning the leaves. Treatment: Remove leaves that are heavily infested. Clean the plant. Use mixture of alcohol and water to remove and kill visible spider mites. Dilute 1 cup of alcohol in 30 oz of water and pour this solution in the spray bottle. Spray both sides of leaves well and wipe them off with the paper towel. Most insecticides have little effect on mites, but a number of chemicals (called acaricides or miticides) are developed specifically for mite control. These are useful in controlling large populations of mites. We recommend using Oberon Insecticide to treat mites Infestation. Dilute 0.5 ml of Oberon per litre of water and spray on the leaves of the infected plant once in seven days until it cures. Plants with mite damage to only a few leaves will recover quickly and without special care, but those with more significant damage will become stressed and require extra attention. Make sure that all plants get the necessary amount of sunlight for the variety. Feed plants a balanced fertilizer, Such as 20-20-20 until the plant starts producing new, healthy leaves, avoid transplanting or making any major changes to the plant environment.

General Information The generic name Grammatophyllum is derived from the Greek words gramma, meaning "a mark or character," and phyllum, "a leaf." This probably refers to the varied markings on the petals and sepals of the flowers, which resulted in Grammatophyllum frequently being called the "Letter Plants." The species produce several racemes, arising from the base of the pseudobulb, with many yellow-green to olive-green, waxy flowers with dark purplish-red marks. This epiphytic genus occurs in the dence rainforest from Indo-China to Indonesia, the Philippines, New Guinea, and the Southwest Pacific Islands. There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous. The second has rather short thick pseudobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the pseudobulbs. The pseudobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum Species are generally yellow and brown. Grammatophyllum Orchids are not only the biggest Orchids in the world, they’re the Fastest-Growing Orchids Light Requirements Grammatophyllum grows well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. The conditions are similar to Dendrobium and Cattleya, which means that 60-80% of sunlight. Lime green-coloured foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching its full blooming potential. Yellow-coloured foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter. A light green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates the maximum amount of sun the plant can take, and a dark green leaf indicates not enough sun. Temperature Requirements Grammatophyllum will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they get cool, mild night temperatures between 10-18 °C. Cold weather, even down to minus 2°C for a few hours each night, will not damage an acclimatised plant, but once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from such low temperatures. Regardless, plants should always be kept free of frost. The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 24 to 30°C during the day and 13 to 16°C at night. At higher temperatures, air circulations and humidity must be increased, or damage can occur. "The Higher the Temperature, the Greater the Plant's need for Humidity" Water Requirements Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in the medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness before re-watering. In the warmer periods, several watering a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. Require plenty of water and high humidity during the growing season. All species come from distinct wet/dry habitats. Less water is required during the cooler months. "The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build-up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth" We suggest watering every third day or twice a week during the hot summer months(not suitable for mounted plants). They should not be allowed to go completely dry, yet they don't care for a soggy environment either. We suggest watering once a week in the winter and early spring months when the weather is colder. Lesser the media, more frequent should be the watering. After you have watered your orchid, it is really important to make sure that the plant is well-drained on regular intervals and to ensure that the roots are not left standing in water for long. The roots won’t tolerate this and can result in root rot if you do. Humidity Requirements Grammatophyllum love warm and very humid weather. The humidity level should be at least 50% or higher. Increase the amount of humidity in the summer months. This can be done by misting on the surrounding area or letting stagnant water far below the plants (in its natural habitat it gets morning dew that gathers in a pool on the branches of trees and if you notice the roots are tiny light-colored but multiple, it absorbs the water and stores it in the large bulbs for dry spells). Make sure the plants have good air circulation. This will help prevent fungus, insect problems, and mold from forming on the leaves. In humid climates, as in greenhouses, it is imperative that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. Many people advise spraying your orchids with a mist of water to increase the humidity levels in the air in the direct vicinity of the orchid. This is generally not a good idea, as it is an inefficient way of increasing local humidity levels, and water will gather on the leaves and flowers. This can lead to mold spots developing on the leaves, or more commonly on the petals of the flowers. Simply put, you can use misting to raise the humidity but its not recommended for watering your orchid plants. Fertilizer Requirements Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. We suggest using a balance type fertilizer 20-20-20 or 15-15-15. From Spring through early Fall, fertilising every seven days, with several clear watering in between. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once every other week. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build-up. Grammatophyllum are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate the concern of salt build-up in the medium, at the same time organic fertilizers decompose much, thus, one should constantly check for fungus and pests. Before fertilizing, you should water the plants soaked, about 10 minutes later, then fertilize the fertilizer, so the plant absorbs better fertilizer. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Use only on its Vegetative Phase Blooming Grammatophyllum are one of the longest blooming orchid genera, producing flowers that last from 2 to 6 months before dropping. Normally, Grammatophyllum orchids need to have a lot of mature pseudobulbs to flowering. If the plant is too young, you should not promote its flowering by using more fertilizer phosphate, because the plant will grow slowly and can not flower. And the plant also needs time to adapt to the living environment in your home. Pruning for Re-Bloom Grammatophyllum orchids rebloom on old spikes with a new stalk emerging from a triangular node along the stalk. To trigger re-blooming, your orchid will need a little more attention than what you usually give it. The thrill when your orchid blooms for a second time, however, makes the small investment in time and effort required to trigger orchid reblooming well worth the effort. Steps to Trigger Re-blooming: Reduce irrigation for about two weeks to create a dry period for the plant. If you regularly irrigate the plants once a day, then now take, 1-2 days to water once. Only irrigate the roots, do not irrigate the leaves. Then fertilize 0-52-34 (MPK) to stimulate flowering for 3-4 consecutive weeks. After a drought, the plant will absorb the fertilizer very well. Pseudobulbs will quickly get old enough to accumulate energy to prepare flowers. Continue to reduce irrigation for about 2 weeks. After this fertilizer application, if you don't see any spikes coming, start watering as usual and prepare the plant for next vegetative phase. Potting, Media and Propagation There are two main reasons why a Grammatophyllum orchid may need re-potted. The first is when the growing media starts to break down and decompose. The second is when the roots outgrow the pot the orchid is growing in. Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is, after all, flowering has ceased, and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, warm water soaks for 10 minutes, which will make most very pliable and easier to remove from the container. When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four pseudobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. When planted in small pots, the plants will produce better flowers, and the roots of the plant tend to grow opposite to the gravity dimension and will spread out into a sphere. After that, dry out, reduce irrigation for the first 7-10 days to help the plant heal wounds. "Newly Re-potted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for few weeks" Orchids generally prefer to be root constrained, so don’t change to a larger pot than necessary. The roots of orchids contribute to photosynthesis and energy generation, so giving the roots access to light enables them to contribute to the overall health and strength of the plant. As the roots gain a lot of moisture and nutrients directly from the air, having plenty of ventilation and drainage holes will enable good air circulation to the roots of your orchid. The most common growing media to use is a tree bark-based mix, although any fast-draining medium such as Coconut husk chips could be a viable alternative. The plant will thrive much better with a smaller volume of healthy roots, than a larger volume of roots with a diseased or unhealthy section. Pests and Other Grammatophyllum Related Problems *External Link

General Overview: The Catasetum Orchid is a beautiful vivid orchid species that is prized by growers for its versatility and beauty. This orchid is fairly easy to grow if you can replicate the correct conditions. Almost always deciduous, the pseudobulbous plants have strict growing and resting periods that they cycle through each year. These vivid plants originate in Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, South America, and Central America where they can grow in sand, rocky conditions, and near ant colonies. This orchid develops fleshy waxy flowers, and the plants are unisex, which is rare in orchids. The male plants are identified by their bright colours and large size while the female plants are a yellow-green colour and have a smaller stature. Another distinguishing trait that sets this species apart is its ability to eject its pollen directly onto its pollinators. This care guide can be related to all Catasetums, Cycnodes and Clowesetums. Growth Cycle: Understanding the Catasetinae growth cycle is the key to successful culture. When the plants are in active growth, maintain a fairly constant root zone moisture and fertilise regularly to optimize new growth. When the plants are dormant little or no water is needed as the pseudobulbs store sufficient water and nutrients to survive their winter rest. Early Season: Catasetums begin their new growth cycle in winter to early spring. Once you see new growth, re-pot your plants into new medium. Last year's roots seem to deteriorate during dormancy and are not as effective as the new roots at taking water and nutrients. Whether or not you repot, do not water your plant until the new growth has well developed new roots. Your roots should be 8 to 12 cms long, so for the sake of simplicity, do not water until your new top growth is 8 to 12 cms tall. This cannot be emphasised enough. Do not water until the new growth has become well established. Mid-Season: New roots are established and the plants are rapidly developing their new pseudobulbs. The growth spurt during this 3 to 4 month period is surprising, often the plants will double in size. To keep pace with their growth rate, the plants require constant moisture and regular fertilization. Normally you will water 2 or 3 times a week. A balanced fertilizer at full strength is suitable for this rapid growth or you can top dress with a controlled release fertilizer and apply water soluble fertilizers at a dilute rate, say 2 grams per Litre. Light levels at or above those suggested for Cattleyas will help insure strong good growth and flowering. The fruits of your labor will begin to pay off as the flowering season begins. Late Season: In the late autumn the plants will begin to enter the dormancy phase, caused by the maturity of the pseudobulb, shorter day length, cooler day/night temperatures and a reduction of root zone moisture. The first signals you will observe on your plants are yellowing and browning off of the leaves. As a general rule, this will happen by mid-November, at which time you will stop fertilizing them and reduce watering by half. When all the leaves have dropped or by the end of December, stop watering the plants. Watering during dormancy should only be done it the plant bulbs shrivel severely. Usually a single irrigation is sufficient to restore the bulbs. Light Requirements: Catasetum orchids are sun-loving plants, and in their natural habitats many species grow prolifically in full sunlight. Unless the strong air movement as found in the natural habitat is available, the grower should provide some shade as well. For the surge of new growth in the springtime, Catasetum plants should be positioned to receive all the sunlight that they can tolerate, depending on their origin, but as their pseudobulbs mature, thought should be given to whether male or female flowers are desired. Catasetums are known to produce male or female flowers based on the amount of light and humidity they are subject to.  High light and low moisture tend to induce production of female flowers while low light and high humidity produce male flowers. A few species, such as Catasetum Cernuum, Catasetum Hookeri, Catasetum Longifolium, and Catasetum Rooseveltianum, should be grown in moderate to deep shade. Temperature Requirements: These orchids are native to hot tropical areas and grow during the rainy summer months. During this growing period, day temperatures of 27°C to 38° C and night temperatures of 16° to 18° C are beneficial. After growths mature, temperatures can be reduced to 12° C at night, with day temperatures of 21° to 30° C. In general for all but a few species, the grower can regard 18°C as the ideal minimum night temperature and not to be overly concerned about daytime highs as long as they stay below 39°C. Water Requirements : Catasetums require plenty of water during their growth phase.  This starts when new growths appear with the onset of the pre-monsoon showers.  Watering should be gradually increased as they mature by the end of the monsoon.  Once the pseudobulbs are mature, watering should be reduced and tapered down until they start dropping their leaves which is an indication that water should be withheld completely except occasionally to prevent shrinking of their pseudobulbs.  It is at this time that they will come into bloom. All mounted, basket-grown, and unconventionally potted Catasetums may be watered every sunny day during the growing season, provided conditions are such that they dry off relatively quickly. In the case of conventionally potted adult plants, it should not be necessary to water more than once or, at most, twice a week. These species like to dry out at least slightly between waterings. When you water, do so thoroughly, allowing the water to flow freely from the bottom of the pot after saturating the entire contents or penetrating the entire root mass of mounted and basket-grown plants. "A good rule of thumb is that the more leaf surface and root system a plant has, the more water it requires" Humidity Requirements : Catasetum orchid tolerate an environment with 40 - 60 % relative humidity during their growing season, but for optimal development of new growth and flowering, 70 % is recommended. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist. Higher humidity increases the plants' ability to withstand and benefit from their quota of light, and it also slows the evaporation of moisture from the potting medium in which they grow. Higher humidity also reduces the likelihood of spider mite attacks, since the little critters prefer warm and dry conditions. Fertilizer Requirements : Catasetum orchids have a reputation of being heavy feeders while actively growing, and the concept of heavy feeding should be applied both to the strength of the fertilizer and to the frequency of fertilizing. The standing goal should be to push the plants to the limit, to make them as strong, healthy, and dynamic as possible. Fertilize with an appropriate formulation at least every week during the growing season, or fertilize with a weak formula every time the plants are watered. Use a high nitrogen formulation (such as 30-10-10) with a full range of trace elements while plants are in active growth, slowly tapering off as pseudobulbs form. As the leaves begin to unfurl, and well before flowering, add a high-phosphorus formula to develop big, strong pseudobulbs capable of producing robust inflorescences. Any of the soluble products with a large second-digit number of N:P:K constitute a good source of phosphorus. A blossom- booster formulation should be used in the autumn, except for plants that normally bloom in the spring. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Only on Mid Season High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Towards the end of Mid Season Potting , Media and Propagation : Potting should be timed to coincide with the initiation of new growth, usually in the spring. New roots will be produced quickly at that time, and plants will experience minimal setback. These plants have vigorous root systems and require a rich, moist potting medium such as coconut husk chips during the growing season. Many growers bare-root their plants during the resting period to ensure dryness at that time. Fine-grade media are common for smaller pots; medium-grade media are used only in larger pots. Sphagnum moss is used successfully for plants in many areas, as it provides tremendous water- and fertilizer-holding capacities. When well grown, these orchids can be divided down to one mature pseudobulb and will then flower on the next mature growth. Hanging the pots or mounts is best because it provides good air movement around the plants. Remember that mounted, plants will require more frequent watering - two or more time per day in the hottest season. A good compromise is to place the plants in pots that are suspended. This offers advantages of both pots and mounts.  Some people prefer to re-pot their plants every year at the beginning of the growth period for best results. "Most plants have a dormant period and, when it occurs, it must be recognised and respected" Pests and Other Catasetum Related Problems : Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Catasetum are common because of the levels of humidity and substrate they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link

General Information The Oncidium family is very large and includes many flower varieties. The most common flower variety is often referred to as the "Dancing Lady". Oncidiums are popular indoor and florist orchids for a very good reason, their large sprays of flowers often sag with dozens of blooms. They have been freely hybridized. There are actually several hundred recognized oncidium species, but the naming is not stable, so there is considerable flux as experts reclassify plants. Oncidium orchids are among the most diverse orchids in the world. One of the most famous cultivars is Oncidium kramerianum, originally from Colombia and Ecuador. This one is called the “butterfly orchid” because of its golden-yellow flowers with brown freckles. Another popular cultivar is Oncidium known as “Sharry Baby.” Oncidiums may originate anywhere from sea level in the tropics to the high elevations of the Andes. This makes cultural generalizations hard. So it is prime to know the Natural Habitat of your Oncidium. They are often described as temperamental and difficult to grow. However, with proper care, it’s possible to grow them relatively easily. It’s important to know what to do and what NOT to do in order to successfully grow these beautiful orchids. This instruction sheet deals with Oncidium types that have thin leaves, pseudobulbs, and branching sprays of bloom. Light Requirements Oncidium orchids are specific when it comes to light requirements. It depends on their growth stage as well as the time of day and season. When they are first starting to grow and blossom, they need direct sunlight for several hours per day. Once they start to blossom and give flowers, it’s important to move your orchid to a cooler place without direct sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can actually burn blossoms. Generally speaking, it’s best to keep your orchid in a semi-shady to semi-sunny environment. At home, east or west windows are ideal. South windows will work but one should be careful of the brilliant sun that will come in during the fall through spring months. If you have miniblinds or sheer curtains, you can break the light so that it is more diffused. Many types of oncidiums will grow under artificial light, Four fluorescent tubes supplemented with incandescent bulbs and placed 6 to 12 inches over the plants are necessary for proper growth. Metalhalide and sodium-vapor bulbs also provide sufficient light without needing to be so close to the plants. One of the best types of artificial light you can provide for your orchids is by using L.E.D Grow Lights. If the leaves are turning much darker, check whether your plant is getting enough Sunlight. Temperature Requirements Oncidiums can be found in many habitats, from semiarid subtropical lowlands to cool and misty cloud forests. Generally, the most popular oncidiums, which feature small yellow flowers, large pseudobulbs, and strappy leaves, are intermediate to warm orchids. Thus ideal requirement are, Day temperature at 26-30° C and Night temperature at 13-16° C. Temperatures up to 35-38° C are tolerated if humidity and air movement are increased as the temperatures rise, a good general rule in any case. Do not expose them to cold drafts or temperatures below about 10° C as that may cause the plant to slow its growth if exposed long. Water Requirements It’s important to know how to water your Oncidium orchid. Overwatering as well as underwatering are common mistakes. Oncidiums generally have different water requirements during different stages of their growth, but a rule of thumb is that they should never be overwatered. Oncidiums store water in their pseudobulbs, making them more tolerant of dry media than wet. Generally speaking, Oncidium orchids require the most water when they are starting to grow and beginning to blossom. This is the only stage in which they require relatively lots of water that should be provided. After this stage, it’s best to provide less water. Oncidiums actually love water, but the trick is to provide adequate drainage. If not, the roots will drown, lose oxygen and rot. This will make the orchid die. For this reason, overwatering is not a good idea for these orchids. On the other hand, if you notice that the top compost is completely dry, it’s usually a sign you should water your orchid again. The frequency of watering varies with respect to the media used , surrounding temperature and the ventilation provided. A way to check the mix for moisture is by sticking a wooden pencil into the mix about 3-4 inch. When you pull the pencil out, check the wooden end. If it has turned dark in color, the mix is still wet and you should wait a day or two. Oncidiums prefer clean water without a lot of mineral content. In the winter, reduce watering to bimonthly or less. They can withstand considerable drought because of their large pseudobulbs. Wrinkled pseudobulbs generally indicate a lack of water. Humidity Requirements Oncidiums need specific humidity levels, at least between 40% and 50%. However, these plants love humidity, so the ideal is actually between 55% and 75%. If you can’t provide that, make sure that humidity levels never drop below 40%. The higher temperature rises, the higher must be the humidity of the air, and the higher the humidity of the air, the more often and longer it is necessary to ventilate the room where the orchids are kept, otherwise there is a high probability of decay and appearance on the leaves of various fungal diseases. Using a Humidity Tray is one of the best ways to achieve any humidity level. These trays are nothing more than a water-holding tray filled with gravel. The gravel-filled trays are filled with water to a level just below the surface. To prevent plants sitting on constantly wet gravel the plants are placed on small saucers or pieces of plastic or metal grid placed on top of the trays. A plump lead pseudobulb indicates a well-hydrated plant. Blooming Oncidiums are magnificent in bloom. A large, well-grown plant might yield six or seven-branched sprays of yellow flowers. The effect is very much like a cloud of buttery butterflies. The most popular species include O. Leucochilum, O. Longipes, O. Sarcodes, O. Pulchellum, as well as many hybrids. Although oncidiums are known for their yellow flowers, other varieties are available. The O. Sharry Baby is sometimes called the chocolate orchid for its sprays of brownish flowers with a rich cocoa scent. Depending on the variety the flowering season can be at any time of year, but is generally heaviest in the fall and spring. Many hybrids can bloom 2-3 times per year. In order to initiate the flower spikes, it is important to grow the plant in an area where the night temperatures fall below 18° C. Usually plants growing by a window are a couple of degrees cooler than the rest of the house. The flower spikes on Oncidiums generally grow to a medium or tall length and branch out in several directions. "Keep a close eye on the spike when it begins to produce flower buds for aphids" Fertilizer Requirements These types of orchids need enough food to thrive. It’s therefore important to fertilize them regularly or they will be unhealthy. However, over fertilization is bad for your plant. If skies are cloudy, applications once a month are sufficient. Make sure to clean any salt deposits on monthly basis in order to avoid burning the Oncidium orchid’s roots. On its growing phase, avoid excess usage of high phosphorous based Fertilizers. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) - On Blooming Periods (Once in a Month) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Except on Blooming Period. Potting , Media and Propagation Oncidiums like to be slightly underpotted in a very free-draining bark-based potting media. Many oncidiums will form large clumps of pseudobulbs and develop into rather large plants. They can be easily divided into clumps when repotting. Just make sure you have at least three pseudobulbs in each division. In general, only repot when necessary. Aggressive repotting can kill an orchid. Oncidium orchids have thin roots so repotting is a very delicate job. They should be repotted about once in every two years. Like many orchids, once an oncidium has adjusted to its conditions, it should not be difficult to grow. A wrong potting medium can be very dangerous for your Oncidium orchid. These types of orchids generally require lots of food, be it in the wild or when grown in cultivation. For these reasons, the type of potting medium is very important. They can usually survive in leafmold compost but using this medium is not advisable. It’s important to use the best medium for epiphytes, such as charcoal and cocopeat or pine bark. The fibers in cocopeat will provide adequate drainage for your orchid, which is important for its growth. Choosing a correct pot is also important. Never pick a too large pot for your oncidium. These orchids are best kept in small, confined pots. The smaller pot, the better. Large pots will often make the compost moist and very damp, which can harm the roots and make them rot. Plants potted in a bark mixture should be carefully pulled out of the pot. Clean off the roots of the old mix, being careful not to break the good roots. However, breaking roots when repotting is inevitable. Roots that are bad and should be cut off are those that are brown and mushy or papery. Those roots that are white or tan and are firm to the touch should be left alone. Simply place the plant into a new pot, placing the oldest growth towards the back of the pot so there is room for the newer growths to develop for about 1-2 years. Oncidiums can be divided when there are 6 or more pseudobulbs. Divide, leaving 3 growths per each division. “ After repotting, Keep humidity high and the potting medium dry until new roots form.” Pests and Other Oncidium Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Oncidiums are common because of the levels of humidity and substrate they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link

General Information Dendrobium is Genus of orchid in the family Orchidaceae. There are over 1200 recognised species of Dendrobium orchids and the floral trade has created an abundance of hybrids. Some species, for example Dendrobium Nobile have been hybridized hundreds of times. Dendrobium orchids grow in a very many different habitats, so it is impossible to generalise their requirements. You can find wild Dendrobium orchids in the Australian outback as well as in an Asian tropical forest and the foothills of the Himalayan mountains. There are tropical rainforest Dendrobium, and species living in deciduous woodland at altitudes over 3000 Metres. To offer correct Dendrobium care, you will need to consider your plant's natural environment. But sometimes information is scarce, or plants can be misidentified. It is important to pay attention to how your plant responds to the conditions in which you are keeping it. Below are some general, and more specific guidelines for looking after Dendrobium orchids as houseplants. Dendrobium orchids are epiphytic or lithophytic in the wild, which means they grow attached to other plants (typically trees) or on rocks and stones. They generally do not root into the ground, so don't have access to the ground moisture as is the case with typical terrestrial plants. They receive their moisture from rain landing upon their roots, and humidity in the air. For proper Dendrobium care, we must water adequately, but they must be allowed to dry between soakings. It is important that you get detailed care information for your certain type of Dendrobium because the care can greatly vary depending on the type you have. The General Classification Dendrobium orchids can be divided into two distinct types, the 'Hard Cane' plants, typified by Dendrobium Phalaenopsis, and the 'Soft Cane' species, typified by Dendrobium Nobile. These species naturally have a lot in common, but because the two types inhabit quite different natural environments, their care will diverge somewhat. 1. Hard Caned or Dendrobium Phalaenopsis Type This Dendrobium is so-named due to certain similarities it has to the better known Phalaenopsis Orchid. It has similar, thick, waxy leaves, and the somewhat flowers appear on a spike - the two plants are not actually related. This species is very widely hybridized, with hundreds of interesting and attractive varieties available. Hard-caned Dendrobiums have tall pseudobulbs that are very thin and their leaves are generally a little darker in colour than the soft-caned. Hard-caned Dens are evergreen and often keep their leaves for many years before they drop them. Hard-caned Dens grow spikes from the top of the cane and produce gorgeous flower sprays. This 'hard cane' Dendrobium hails from tropical forests in the very north east corner of Australia and New Guinea, so has less seasonal variation than Dendrobium Nobile, below. It likes a warm bright environment, and regular feeding during the growing period; the winter rest period does not need a significant temperature drop to encourage flowering, though feeding should stop, and watering should be reduced; perhaps replaced by misting, unless the leaves or canes start to shrivel. 2. Soft Caned or Dendrobium Nobile Type This is a very well-known orchid, with huge numbers of cultivars available, with some very attractive flowers. Orchids of this type are often referred to as 'soft cane'. Generally easy to care for, and therefore very popular. Unlike Dendrobium Phalaenopsis above, the flowers grow from the plant's canes, rather than from a flower spike. This species is also characterised by it's thin flexible leaves; quite unlike the foliage of Dendrobium Phalaenopsis. Small buds appear on each node of the cane towards the end of winter. However, getting plants of this species to flower does require a little attention, and consideration of their natural growing conditions. Care for Dendrobium Nobile indoors is not as simple as caring for some tropical orchids with less seasonal variation in temperature. The natural habitat of Dendrobium Nobile orchids is the deciduous forests in the foothills of the Himalayas, but also China, Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. They grow often at higher altitudes than many other orchid species and as such can tolerate significantly cooler temperatures than plants that inhabit lowland equatorial rain forests. If these plants do not experience a cool winter they will not flower, rather produce Plantlets (keikis) instead of buds. The forests within which they live lose their leaves in winter, subjecting the plant to very bright, but cold and dry conditions. So to exhibit best care, Dendrobium Nobile should be given a winter break: this can be simulated by leaving these plants outdoors for a few weeks after flowering, temperatures as low as 10°C are fine; naturally don't let these plants experience any frost. Stop feeding and watering the plant over the winter period (typically Children's Day to Valentine's day), but position them with good light. We will discuss more about the caring of Nobile type dendrobiums in a separate Post. "This care guide is for the most commonly grown Hybrids of Phalaenopsis type dendrobiums pictured above" Care are and Growth Information of Nobile Type and Other Dendrobium Species will be detailed in separate posts. Light Requirements Dendrobiums Phalaenopsis need lots of light, but not direct sun. A lightly shaded south window is best. These plants like strong, natural sunlight. They love full morning and late afternoon sun, but do best if the light is somewhat filtered between 11 am and 3 pm. They will grow in lower-light conditions, but it is unlikely the plant will bloom well. The appearance of keikis often means the plant isn't getting enough light. On the other hand, if you see yellow leaves you may have given the plant too much direct sunlight. Temperature Requirements They are considered warm-house plants by growers, meaning they favour conditions in a warm greenhouse. The temperature for these plants should be above 60 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Dendrobium Phalaenopsis type orchids do well in daytime temperatures somewhere between 24°C to 30°C and night temperatures between 16°C to 18°C. They will do best when there is a 8°C to 11°C difference between day and night temperatures. “ Remember! With higher Temperatures adequate Ventilation and Humidity must be provided” Water Requirements These plants are evergreen and do not require a rest period as some orchids do. They should be watered as they approach dryness. This can vary from 2 to 5 days, depending on humidity, air movement, the amount of light they receive, the potting media used, the type of pot (Plastic or Clay) and the size of the pot. After the growing season, cut water back somewhat, but do not suspend watering. Water your orchids in the morning so that the leaves are dry before night. Do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so. Be sure to let the plant drain completely. Don't leave them in a tray of water as that can rot the roots. Over-watering is more harmful to dendrobium orchids than under-watering. Yellowing Dendrobium leaves can be a sign of too much or too little water. "Dendrobiums like to be in small pots and are usually much taller than the pot is wide" Humidity Requirements The ideal humidity range to grow your Dendrobium Phalaenopsis is 50-60 % humidity. Brown leaf tips are a sign that the air is too dry for your orchid. Use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water (Humidity Tray) to increase humidity around your plants. Be sure the pot does not sit in water as this will rot the roots. Give your plants room for air to circulate around them. Crowding of plants can lead to problems with insect infestations and fungus. A small fan will help provide good air circulation around your plants. Blooming The bloom sprays appear from the top of the canes when mature and usually have from 5-20 flowers that last from one to three months. You can use the sprays to use as cut flowers for arrangements. These bloom several times throughout the year, depending on conditions. Some are scented. When the blooms are done, cut the sprays just where they meet the canes. Canes have the potential of producing several sprays from the upper leaf axils. "To help provoke a flower spike, slightly drop the water and night time temperature" However, you should not remove any old leafless canes, as they store nutrients and water to keep the plant healthy. Older canes will sometimes flower or produce tiny plantlets, called keikis, that can be potted up on their own after they develop roots. Fertilizer Requirements Dendrobium Phalaenopsis need to be fertilised regularly when they are in active growth. Fertilising every two to three weeks during the summer months and once a month in the winter should suffice. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) "Once a month use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the Potting Mix" Potting , Media and Propagation These are naturally epiphytic orchids that will thrive in hanging baskets with little or no potting media or they will do well in fast-draining media as a windowsill plant. In fact, they do best in a smaller pot with only an extra inch beyond the root ball. Orchids don't grow in soil , but rather in a special mixture that mimics their environment in the wild. Choose a suitable orchid potting medium which can be locally made available, mostly containing Peat moss, Perlite, Fir bark, Pine Bark, Charcoal or Cocopeat as a whole or as Ingredients. Repotting should be done only as the mix breaks down (every 2 to 3 years) or as the plant outgrows the pot or once the potting medium remains soggy and no longer drains properly. Before repotting, you should always remove all of the old potting medium and trim away the damaged roots with a sterile cutting tool. "When re-potting, use a small pot; using a large pot will slow growth and reduces flowering significantly" If your plant has at least four canes that are bearing healthy leaves, you can divide it. Each division needs at least three canes/growths per division. Use a large stiff knife to cut through the rhizome and root mass, attempting to keep the root mass intact as much as possible. Remove all the growing medium from the root mass, and then cut away any long, dangling or dead roots. Put the plant in a pot in the appropriate size it shouldn't be too larger. Add orchid potting media around the roots, so the junction of the plant and the root is a half-inch below the mixture. Pack the potting medium firmly, and wait one week to water it thoroughly. Pests and Other Dendrobium Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Dendrobiums are common because of the levels of humidity they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and distortion in flowers. *External Link

General Information The Phalaenopsis or 'Moth Orchid' is the most common orchid due to its ease of production and the availability of blooming plants year-round. Phals are easily grown in the home and stay in bloom for a very long time. A mature phal will be in bloom much of the year with graceful inflorescences loaded with good-sized blooms. From pure whites to unusual spotted harlequins, Phalaenopsis are sure to please. Unlike many other orchids, Phalaenopsis can be repotted anytime, though it is usually best to do so when not in bloom. The culture of Phalaenopsis orchids involves windowsill light and consistent moisture. Phals do very well as houseplants and will grow and flower in a moderately bright windowsill. Each year a Phalaenopsis will grow two or three new leaves. Once the growth phase is complete, usually in the fall, a bloom spike will emerge from the stem beneath the second or third leaf from the top. Sometimes we have to help a Phalaenopsis that is grown in a consistently warm home to realize it is fall by allowing it to experience lower temperatures (60's) for several nights in order to set a bloom spike. Phalaenopsis orchids bloom in the late winter through the spring. Culture for Doritis, a related genus, thought by some to be conspecific with Phalaenopsis, and Doritaenopsis, a hybrid between the two genera, is the same as for pure Phalaenopsis. Light Requirements Phalaenopsis are ‘low’ light orchids. In nature, they grow attached to the trunks of large trees, below the leaf canopy, so they are familiar with bright, but indirect light, that passes through the canopy. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or no sun. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. A Phal’s leaves should be olive green. If they are darker it means the plant is not getting enough light; red tinged leaves mean the plant is getting too much light. Once the plant is in bloom you can place it anywhere in your home out of direct sunlight. If in a greenhouse, 70 to 85 percent shad must be given. Think of a greenhouse that has lots of natural light but the glass is whitewashed to diffuse the direct rays of the sun, that’s the exposure they love. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves. You can also achieve good phalaenopsis orchid care in indoor spaces away from windows, as long as there is a good source of light, either natural or artificial, to ensure that the plant gets sufficient light. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Four fluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. Temperature Requirements Phalaenopsis Orchids are ideally suited to indoor temperatures. Temperatures for Phalaenopsis should usually be above 16°C at night, and range between 21°C and 27°C or more during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum being 28 and 32°C. Night temperatures to 12°C are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open. Be sure to keep them away from air conditioners and heaters as well as any hot or cold drafts. "The Higher the Temperature, the Greater the Plant's need for Humidity" Water Requirements Water is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their leaves, they must never completely dry out. How often you water will depend on the potting medium. Bark retains less water than moss. If your phal is potted in bark watering once in 2 days is generally sufficient. If your plant is potted in moss, water when the top feels dry. Generally Phalaenopsis require watering about once every 2 to 4 days under outdoor conditions. The amount of light and heat your plant receives will also affect how soon your phal needs watering. Summer months will need more frequent watering, winter will need less. After a few watering, you will be able to tell by the weight of the pot whether or not it is time to water again. If in doubt, wait a day. Water your Phalaenopsis orchids early in the morning. This insures complete water evaporation on the foliage as well as the crown by nightfall. Water with rain, distilled, or reverse-osmosis water as the mix approaches dryness. Never use water that has been softened by a water softener. "Don’t Water The Leaves And Flowers Of Your Orchids" You should only water the roots of your orchid, as getting the leaves and flowers of your orchids wet can lead to all kinds of problems. If you pour water onto your orchid from above, you are likely to leave standing water in the crown where the new leaves are growing. If you do this repeatedly, this standing water will encourage crown rot to form which can very quickly damage your plant or even result in it dying. "Don’t Mist Your Phalaenopsis Orchids" Many people advise spraying your orchids with a mist of water to increase the humidity levels in the air in the direct vicinity of the orchid. This is generally not a good idea, as it is an inefficient way of increasing local humidity levels, and water will gather on the leaves and flowers. This can lead to mold spots developing on the leaves, or more commonly on the petals of the flowers. After you have watered your orchid, it is really important to make sure that the plant is well drained before placing it back on display, and to ensure that the roots are not left standing in water for long. The roots won’t tolerate this and can result in root rot if you do. The Ice Cubes Controversy There is a lot of conflicting advice about whether regular use of 3 ice cubes to water your orchids is it good thing to do or not. It is often highlighted as a good idea, as it encourages people not over water their orchids due to the small amount of water in ice cubes. For people growing orchids in colder conditions, towards the bottom of the ideal temperature range, using ice to water your orchids may increase cold temperature stress for your plants. In warmer climates, watering your orchids with ice is not going to have a significantly adverse impact. The ice will melt quickly and will not significantly impact the temperature of the roots or plant. However, in warmer climates, it is likely that your orchids will need more water, and using ice cubes may not provide sufficient hydration for your plants. Humidity Requirements Phalaenopsis orchids are of a monopodial growth without any pseudobulbs to help store moisture. For this reason, the recommended humidity being between 50 and 80 percent. Using a Humidity Tray is one of the best ways. These trays are nothing more than a water-holding tray filled with gravel. The gravel-filled trays are filled with water to a level just below the surface. To prevent plants sitting on constantly wet gravel the plants are placed on small saucers or pieces of plastic or metal grid placed on top of the trays. A plumpy and wrinkleless leaves indicates a well-hydrated plant. In humid climates, as in greenhouses, it is imperative that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. "Don’t Leave The Roots Of Your Phalaenopsis Orchid Standing In Water" Blooming Phalaenopsis are one of the longest blooming orchid genera, producing flowers that last from 2 to 6 months before dropping. Phalaenopsis have also been known to bloom 2 to 3 times per year once they have reached a mature size. After it has flowered the spike turns brown, cut it off near the base of the plant where it emerged. Pruning for Re-Bloom Phalaenopsis orchids rebloom on old spikes with a new stalk emerging from a triangular node along the stalk. To trigger re-blooming, your orchid will need a little more attention than what you usually give it. The thrill when your orchid blooms for a second time, however, makes the small investment in time and effort required to trigger orchid reblooming well worth the effort. Phalaenopsis orchids expend a lot of energy to create the large, beautiful flowers for which they are prized. Under normal circumstances, your orchid will enter a resting period called dormancy once it has finished blooming. Dormancy allows the plant time to rest and replace the nutrients expended during blooming. Nutrients and water are stored in the plant’s leaves until they are needed for growth and blooming. Dormancy typically lasts from 6 to 9 months and your orchid may re-bloom on its own. But sometimes orchids need a little help activating the natural rhythm that leads to blooming. Steps to Trigger Re-blooming: Good light conditions are essential to give an orchid sufficient energy to stimulate re-blooming. Put your orchid in a bright window, ideally south or east facing, with plenty of indirect sunlight. To stimulate re-flowering, your Phalaenopsis orchid should ideally experience a variation in the temperature between day and night. A daytime temperature of between 21-29 °C and a nighttime low of 16-21 °C is ideal. Trying to cut nodes in positions as mentioned above. The site of the cut often becomes the point at which a new stem or stems will grow. Increasing the humidity of the local environment, producing a climate which is more favorable for the orchid to thrive and re-flower in. Try Humidity Trays. The vegetative phase after flowering is the time when fertilizing is the most important. I like to ensure that I fertilize my orchids approximately every 2 weeks with a reduced strength fertilizer solution throughout this growth phase. Cutting Spikes on a Phalaenopsis For most orchid genera the flower spike should be cut back after the bloom. This is usually indicated by the plant as the spike turns brown. For Phalaenopsis it can be a bit tricky to know what to do and to make matters more confusing there are differing schools of thought on the issue. On most Phalaenopsis the bloom spike will turn brown after the plant is finished bearing flowers on a spike. It may not turn brown all the way down, however. One school of thought says to cut the spike above a node on the stem and allow the plant to rebloom again as a branch off the existing spike. The other school of thought says to always cut the flower spike off at the base when the blooms drop. Blooms take energy from the plant so cutting the spike entirely off allows the plant to gather its energy for an even more spectacular bloom in the future. Allowing the spike to branch results in more blooms sooner but takes energy from the plant resulting in often smaller blooms. It seems in orchid culture there are exceptions to every rule. Some Phalaenopsis should not have their bloom spikes cut. These Phals have in their parentage species such as violacia, amboninsis, cornu-cervi, etc. These Phals usually bear only a few blooms at the end of a spike and will bear blooms sequentially on the same spike for a very long time, seemingly forever. The primary reason to cut these spikes is if the plant becomes too unruly. Each spike on a Phalaenopsis will have at least a few nodes going up the spike prior to the blooms. Each of these nodes bears the potential to branch either during or after the initial bloom. If the decision is made to allow the orchid to branch on a spike, cut the spike off directly above a node. Spikes emerge from the same area of the plant as the roots. Spikes look like "mittens" or little hands and are not purely round like roots. Look for this characteristic shape. Fertilizer Requirements A healthy Phalaenopsis will benefit greatly from added fertilizer, but adding fertilizer won’t fix most problems with an unhealthy orchid. Always use a reduced strength of fertilizer, but using it on a more frequent basis, rather than using full strength less often. This is mainly due to the nature of the growth medium. Phalaenopsis Orchids are often grown in bark or a combination of bark, sphagnum moss, perlite etc. These will not hold moisture and nutrients as well as soil, so regular application, of immediately bio available nutrients will be most beneficial for your orchids. Phalaenopsis Orchids generally don’t need much, if any fertilizer during their blooming phase. It is during the vegetative phase of orchid growth that fertilizer is really needed, to give the plant the energy to start growing a new stem, buds and flowers. During the flowering phase, don't fertilize. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Use only on its Vegetative Phase Potting , Media and Propagation There are two main reasons why a phalaenopsis orchid may need re-potted. The first is when the growing media starts to break down and decompose. The second is when the roots outgrow the pot the orchid is growing in. Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium starts to decompose, usually in two years. "Root Rot occurs if Plants are left in a Soggy Medium" Orchids generally prefer to be root constrained, so don’t change to a larger pot than necessary. It is a good idea to pick a transparent pot for Phalaenopsis orchids. The roots of orchids contribute to photosynthesis and energy generation, so giving the roots access to light enables them to contribute to the overall health and strength of the plant. As the roots gain a lot of moisture and nutrients directly from the air, having plenty of ventilation and drainage holes will enable good air circulation to the roots of your orchid. The most common growing media to use is a tree bark based mix, although any fast draining medium could be a viable alternative. Phalaenopsis are being grown successfully in perlite, expanded clay, peat, bark, sphagnum moss and various mixed media. As long as we adapt to the characteristics of your chosen growing media, we can have good success. It is good practice to assess the roots when you are repotting. Any roots that appear damaged or unhealthy can be removed either manually, or with a sharp and clean pair of garden shears. Don’t be too worried about removing unhealthy roots. The plant will thrive much better with a smaller volume of healthy roots, than a larger volume of roots with a diseased or unhealthy section. Phalaenopsis Plants as monopodial, can't be divided. They will naturally produce "Baby" orchids known as a keiki. These are identical copies of the parent and normally appear on either an old or new flower spike. After the keiki is about a year old, you can remove it from the parent plant and give it its own pot. The keiki is ready after it has two or three leaves and its own roots about 3 inches long. “ Phalaenopsis Plants must be potted in a Porous Mix” Pests and Other Phalaenopsis Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Phalaenopsis are common because of the high levels of humidity they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link

General Information The group of orchids now called Tolumnia were at one time called Oncidium section Variegata or commonly referred to as "equitant oncidiums". The foliage seldom exceeds 6 to 8 inches in height, and a 4-inch pot can house a "specimen" plant. The leaves are arranged in pairs overlapping or straddling one another at the base, accounting for the popular term "Equitant". Flowers are produced primarily in the spring on 12- to 18-inch inflorescences that are often branched on older plants. Some types have much shorter, bouquet-like displays. The key to growing Tolumnias is understanding their natural habitat. The species are endemic to the Central America and Caribbean Island Basin with many confined to a single island. Most of the species involved in modern hybrids are found in intermediate to warm conditions growing on twigs where they are exposed to bright light and air movement. Moisture is provided by high humidity and by daily rain showers. Due to constant air movement by the trade winds, plants never remain wet for long. These plants can often bloom more than once a year. Larger specimen plants or large collections of Equitants can provide some blooms most of the year round. Today's hybrids offer an astounding array of colors and patterns not seen in the species. Their petite size and ability to adapt to a fairly wide range of conditions make them suitable for growing spaces under lights or on windowsills. Light Requirements Tolumnia orchid loves bright sunlight and is able to tolerate direct morning and evening sun, however, in the hot summer noon especially in the windows of southern orientation, the orchid should be protected from direct sunlight. They do well growing in an east window receiving sunlight from early in the morning until 11:00 or 11:30 AM. Put behind a curtain for example, on a table near a window or in the shade of other plants, otherwise the plant can get a sunburn. The intensity of illumination can be judged by the state of the leaves of the orchid, if their color becomes lighter, with yellowness or whiteness, then in this case too intense illumination takes place. In the absence of sunlight, on the contrary, the leaves of the orchid have a darker green color. Temperature Requirements This kind of orchid refers to a moderately warm temperature regime, and it is recommended to keep the orchids under the following conditions throughout the year: Day temperature at 20-30° C and Night temperature at 14-23° C . To successfully grow Tolumnia at home, it is necessary that the night temperature of the content is always 5 ° C lower than the daytime temperature. They will endure occasional deviations, but extremes lower than 14° C and higher than 32° C for any length of time should be avoided. Water Requirements This is the most crucial aspect to success with tolumnias. There is no hard and fast rule for how often to water. Watering directly depends on the temperature of the content, the higher it is, the more often and abundant it is necessary to water. Plants growing on blocks should be watered daily in the morning, so that by evening the roots of the orchids could dry out relatively well. When watering orchids in pots, it is necessary to remember that excess water during watering should flow freely out of the pot, as the stagnation of water both inside the pot and in its pallet can very quickly lead to rotting of the roots and the lower part of the plant. The substrate between waterings should dry well. On hot summer days, daily spraying of the outer part of the plant is recommended, which will additionally increase the humidity of the air around the orchid and help it better survive the heat. Water that collects in the overlapping leaf bases can reach "cooking" temperatures and severely damage plant tissue, especially the tender young growths. Humidity Requirements For normal growth and development the relative humidity level of 45-70% will be enough. For plants planted in blocks, a higher air humidity is desired than for a pot culture. Too dry air negatively affects the development of the plant, its growth is inhibited, and the roots of the orchids begin to dry out. The higher temperature rises, the higher must be the humidity of the air, and the higher the humidity of the air, the more often and longer it is necessary to ventilate the room where the orchids are kept, otherwise there is a high probability of decay and appearance on the leaves of various fungal diseases. Using a Humidity Tray is one of the best ways to achieve any humidity level. These trays are nothing more than a water-holding tray filled with gravel. The gravel-filled trays are filled with water to a level just below the surface. To prevent plants sitting on constantly wet gravel the plants are placed on small saucers or pieces of plastic or metal grid placed on top of the trays. A plump lead pseudobulb indicates a well-hydrated plant. Blooming Flowers are produced primarily in the spring on 12- to 18-inch inflorescences that are often branched on older plants. Some types have much shorter, bouquet-like displays. "Do not cut the inflorescence after initial flowering. It will often branch and continue with another flush of blooms" Resting Period To stimulate flowering, Tolumnia needs a clearly defined period of rest. It is necessary for the period from November to February, and is that the orchids contain much drier than usual, and do not fertilize. Watering the orchid growing in the substrate, it is necessary to replace it with light spraying and perform this procedure no more often than once in 3-4 weeks. For orchids on blocks, the irrigation frequency is reduced to one time in 10-15 days. After the appearance of peduncles, the rest period ends and the watering of the orchid resumes in the usual volume. Fertilizer Requirements In the natural habitat, plants are bathed with nutrients derived from decaying plant and animal matter with every rain. So, for cultivated plants, frequent and dilute feeding is the preferred approach. A balanced fertilizer applied every second or third week should be adequate. Flushing with plain water between feedings is important because residual salts can damage the roots. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) - On Resting Periods (Once in a Month) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) - Except on Resting Period. Potting , Media and Propagation Frequency of watering and selection of substrate are closely integrated. The objective is to achieve the proper combination allowing for good irrigation with adequate aeration and rapid drying of the root area. Mounting is the method of choice; at least for a start. Twigs, cork bark, small wood or tree-fern plaques all work well. Place a pad of moss or coconut fiber around the roots. A daily light misting will help establish growth. If plants on mounts show a tendency to shrivel despite regular waterings, this may indicate conditions drier than optimum. Pare off some of the mount without disturbing the plant and simply set it in a clay pot (with no medium). This procedure may afford just the right amount of extra moisture around the root area. If conditions still seem too dry, sift potting mix into the container around the base of the plant. The medium used should be porous and drain readily. As a substrate, the mixture of the bark of coniferous trees and moss sphagnum in a proportion of 5: 1 is best. Pots for planting should be used small and narrow, exactly the size of the root system of the plant. When growing orchids on blocks, it is recommended to cover the roots of the plant with moss, this will be a good protection against very rapid drying. From frequent irrigation and fertilization, the substrate quickly decomposes and loses its main useful property for orchids - air permeability, therefore it is recommended to replant Tolumnia at least every 2-3 years. The best time for this is considered the period immediately after flowering. Unless plants are cultivated in a basket, a 3- to 4-inch pot full is the maximum size to which a plant should be allowed to grow. When this size is reached (every two years on average), divide and repot the plant. Otherwise, as the central part of the plant begins to decline it may affect the healthy portion through bacterial or fungal rot. Repotting should be done when new growth begins in the spring to assure quick establishment in the new quarters. “ As Adaptable, there is no Single Best Potting Medium” Pests and Other Tolumnia Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Tolumnia are common because of the levels of humidity and substrate they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link

General Information Orchids in the genus Paphiopedilum are some of the easiest to care for, and they produce beautiful, long-lasting blooms. Let’s learn about these attractive plants. There are about 80 species and hundreds of hybrids in the Paphiopedilum genus. Some have striped or variegated leaves, and others have flowers with spots, stripes or patterns. Many of these varieties are prized by collectors. Paphiopedilums are often called "slipper orchids" because of their unique pouch. However, they are different from the North American wildflowers known as lady’s slipper orchids. Most Paphiopedilum species are terrestrial orchids, which means they grow in soil. Terrestrial orchids should be grown in a pot, not in a hanging mount as is sometimes used for tree-dwelling epiphyte orchids. Growing Paphiopedilum terrestrial orchids outdoors is also possible in tropical and subtropical climates. These Southeast Asian plants have flowers of heavy substance, lasting from one to three months. There are multi-flowered, sequential flowered and single flowered varieties of many different sizes, shapes and colors. Light Requirements Paphs belong to the "low" light group of orchids. Place in any bright window but protect from midday sun. Leaves should be a medium-green color. If they are too pale or yellowish, the plant could be getting too much light. An east window is ideal; west or south windows can also be used if shaded with a sheer curtain. You can tell by the leaves if the plant is getting too much light. A reddish tinge on the edges means you need to provide more shade for your plant. If your paph does not re-bloom, it may not be getting enough light. Temperature Requirements Paphiopedilum are divided into two temperature groups: warm and cool growers. The attractive mottled-leaf types come from the temperate zones and the solid green-leafed types come from the higher, cooler altitudes. Generally speaking, those with mottled foliage and the strap-leafed, multi-flowered species or hybrids do best in intermediate to warm conditions, preferring daytime temperatures of 21-26º C and nighttime temperatures of 13-18º C. The cool-growing species are mostly from India and grow at higher elevations. Complex hybrids are cool growing and bloom mostly during the winter season. These types prefer nighttime temperatures of 13-17º C with days around 18-21º C. They will all tolerate the heat of summer as long as they are regularly watered, shaded and kept in humid conditions. The mottled leaved varieties do best in a warmer house or apartment and can often bloom twice a year. Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature. Paphs can be grown outside in mild climates. Protect plants during cold temperatures by avoiding moisture on leaves or in the crowns and in summer from burning from the sun. “ Know the Origin of your Species or Hybrid before setting Temperature” Water Requirements How often you water will depend on whether your plant is potted in bark or a sphagnum moss mix and the amount of light and heat. Paphs need more frequent watering than some other orchids because they have no pseudobulbs to store water. Bark retains less water so will require more frequent watering - every two days is usually sufficient. If your plant is potted in moss, water when the top feels dry. Care should be taken not to overwater to avoid rotting the roots. Soon you will be able to tell by the weight of the pot whether or not it is time to water again. If in doubt, wait a day. Paphiopedilum must be kept constantly moist or damp, but not soggy. Check frequently below the surface to determine the need for water. Normal watering intervals are between seven and ten days. Like all orchids, it is important to water in the morning. This insures complete water evaporation on the foliage as well as the crown by nightfall, thus preventing bacteria and fungus rot. Water the plant as it approaches dryness. Use rainwater, distilled water, reverse osmosis water or municipal water. Do not use softened water. Put plant in sink when watering and allow it to drain well. Under most growing conditions, watering is done at 3-7 day intervals depending on the pot size. "PLANTS SHOULD NEVER STAND IN WATER!" Humidity Requirements Paphs like a humidity of between 45% and 70%. This may be accomplished by the use of humidifiers or by filling a saucer with crushed rock and placing it under the plants. The water under the rock will slowly evaporate, slightly raising the humidity level. Be sure the pot does not sit in water as this will rot the roots. DIY humidity trays are another option you can use to place your plants on. Give your plants room for air to circulate around them. Crowding of plants can lead to problems with insect infestations and fungus. A small fan will help provide good air circulation around your plants. Blooming They mostly flower in spring, early summer or early autumn but in the right conditions can flower year round. The flowers are small to large and are highly specialized to attract specific insect pollinators and many have a strong pungent odor to attract mainly flies. Fertilizer Requirements Fertilize on a regular schedule, but care must be taken to avoid burning of the fleshy, hairy roots. High-nitrogen fertilizers are recommended when potted in any fir-bark mix. It's important to flush with clear water monthly to leach excess fertilizer, which can burn roots. In cool weather, fertilizer applications once a month are sufficient. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days)(Only on Warm Seasons) High-Nitrogen Fertilizer for Blooming: 30-10-10 (NPK) – 0.5 gram per litre of water – Spray on every Week (All Year Round) Potting , Media and Propagation Potting should be done about every two years, or as the medium decomposes. Seedlings and smaller plants are often re-potted annually. Mixes vary tremendously; most are fine- or medium-grade fir bark, with varying additives, such as perlite (sponge rock), coarse sand and sphagnum moss. Moisture retention with excellent drainage is needed. Large plants can be divided by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart, into clumps of three to five growths. Smaller divisions will grow, but may not flower. Spread the roots over a small amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill with medium, so that the junction of roots and stem is buried 1 to 2 inch deep in the center of the pot. When the blooms are finished, cut the spike down to the level of the leaves. Continue watering and fertilizing and within a year a new growth will spike to begin the blooming cycle again! When the plant has finished blooming is a good time to repot your orchid. “Most growers find that plastic pots work best for Paphiopedilums” Pests and Other Paphiopedilum Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Paphiopedilums are common because of the levels of humidity they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and distortion in flowers. *External Link

General Information The genus Bulbophyllum is the largest one in the entire orchid family Orchidaceae and currently contains over 1800 orchid species, and new species are constantly being described and added to this vast genus. It is currently one of the largest genera in the entire plant kingdom, only Euphorbia and Senecio contain more species. In the floral trade, Bulbophyllum is abbreviated Bulb. Bulbophyllum orchid was named refers to the leaf shape. The plants from this genus are native to Australia, South-east Asia, Africa and South America with the greatest diversity found in Papua New Guinea. They are found from the high and low altitude in rain and cloud forests of most tropical and subtropical countries. They have tremendous variation in their growth habit, ranging from fully terrestrial species to giant epiphytic climbers. They can bloom directly from the rhizome or the growth, depending on the species. General information should only be used as a Bulbophyllum care guide and should be adapted to suit you. Your physical location, where you grow your plants, how much time you have to devote to their care, and many other factors, will need to be taken into account. Only then can you decide on the cultural methods that best suit you and your plants. Light It is hard to provide any specific recommendations since Bulbophyllum orchids are found in such a myriad of different environments. If you are unable to find species specific guidelines you can assume that the wider the leaves are, the less light demanding will the plant be. Bulbophyllum Orchids usually need intermediate light which is less than Cattleyas but more than Phalaenopsis. Higher light, that does not damage the leaves, seems to result in better and more frequent blooming. They can be grown indoors providing they receive good light. Temperature They are regarded as warm to intermediate growers. Most require warm temperatures from 21-27°C but will be comfortable in a temperature range of 7 to 35°C. They will not tolerate frosts. They need a temperature drop of about 6-8°C at night for flowering. Those that originate in high altitude areas of Papua New Guinea prefer lower temperatures and may not be suited to hotter climates. The minimum temperature for the tropical forms is considered to be 10°C and 15°C for equatorial species. “Know the Origin of Your Species before setting the Temperature” Water Also, as mentioned above, it is impossible to provide any guidelines that will be true for all Bulbophyllum species. Many of them are however used to rainy environments and need a lot of water. If you keep one of these species potted, you can water your Bulbophyllum orchid every 3-4 day and allow only a slight drying out between each watering. If you keep the orchids mounted, you can water them twice a day. If a new leaf is smaller than the old one, your Bulbophyllum orchids needs more watering. Generally, these orchids need to have ample water supply when the plants are in active growth, and a drought of even a couple of days is enough to kill the new growths and set back the plant. Due to their shallow fine root system they need to have constant moisture around their roots, however depending on their origin, some need a distinct wet and dry period to flower. The potting mix should never be allowed to dry out completely. They can be kept slightly drier in winter. Humidity Most species come from humid rainforests. Humidity should be kept at 60%, which can be difficult to do outside of the greenhouse. Water frequently, as both mounted (at least daily) and potted plants (several times a week) will thrive under wetter conditions than most orchids. Bulbophyllum may be the exception to the rule "when in doubt, don't water. Good air movement is important to reduce the problem of leaf fungal disease due to frequent watering. Where natural humidity is high or where humidification maintains a high degree of humidity, increased air movement is essential to prevent stagnant air and the development of diseases. Blooming They mostly flower in spring, early summer or early autumn but in the right conditions can flower year-round. The flowers are small to large and are highly specialized to attract specific insect pollinators and many have a strong pungent odor to attract mainly flies. Feeding If you fail to find species specific information regarding nutrient requirements for your Bulbophyllum orchid, try using a balanced fertilizer two times per month. Divisions should only be given half strength. Seedlings can benefit from a fertilizer high in nitrogen until they are large enough to blossom. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative week (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative week (14 Days) "They are more on the side of Drinking Water than Feeding Nutrients" Potting, Media and Propagation Bulbophyllum orchid can be grown mounted on slabs of wood or tree barks. However, all the species can be grown in shallow pots, or even baskets. One requirement is to retain enough moisture at the root, as most species don’t like to dry out. The rhizome can be trained to stay in the pot by bending them, eventually cutting the old bulbs and leaving them in place, so they will provide additional growth in the pot. Sphagnum has been popular because it retains a lot of moisture, which is what these plants prefer when in active growth; however, when it decays or starts to retain too many salts, the plants will have problems. Bulbophyllum species tend to prefer a minimum of repotting. The choice of potting will often be dictated by the very long rhizomes of some species. Re-pot as infrequently as possible. Repotting is best done in spring or autumn when new growth appears at a frequency of about every 3 years. If dividing a plant, one or two pseudobulbs per division are required. Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Carefully cut the rhizomes with sterile tools and then pot it. After dividing the orchid, it is imperative to keep the plants in a humid area while to roots begin to grow. “Mounting is Preferred on their Mature Stage” Pests and Other Bulbophyllum Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Bulbophyllums are common because of the levels of humidity they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and distortion in flowers. *External Link

General Information Orchid enthusiasts collect different hybrids with Cattleya as one of the more popular varieties. It is native to tropical America and sometimes referred to as the “queen of the orchids.” Cattleya orchid plants produce some of the brightest, most uniquely formed flowers in the orchid world. The average home interior is perfect for growing Cattleya orchids. There are just a few details to learn regarding how to grow Cattleya orchids; but once you master those, you will have a lovely and long-term addition to your home. The orchid plants we call “cattleyas” may be species or hybrids within the genus Cattleya, or they may be close relatives (Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis, Epidendrum, ­Encyclia, Broughtonia), or hybrids among these genera. Fortunately most of the species and hybrids of the cattleya tribe are easy to grow, and some are highly recommended for beginners’ collections. Many of them adapt beautifully to our subtropical conditions, doing equally well in pots and other containers, or naturalized in our trees. Some interesting information about Cattleya is their native habit as Epiphytes, or tree growing plants. They can cling to a tree crotch or rocky crevasse and need little soil. The plants are long lived perennials and some professional collectors have plants half a century old. Cattleya orchid plants grow well in soilless media, such as bark and rocks or perlite, which mimics this natural growth habit. The thickened stems, called pseudobulbs, store moisture for the plant to use during the dry season. Let's get some insights on cattleya orchid care. Light Like most flowering plants, cattleyas want bright light in order to grow and flower well. They will take fairly high light levels early and late in the day, but should be protected from ­direct midday sunlight. You can easily tell if a ­cattleya is ­getting the right amount of light by looking at the foliage. Afternoon sunlight coming through west-facing windows can be extremely hot and, without adequate air movement and humidity, damaging to your plants. If the plant’s leaves are rich, dark green, it isn’t getting enough light; if the plant is light yellow-green, it’s getting too much light. The correct light levels produce foliage with an attractive medium green color. If your cattleyas don’t flower, lack of light may be the culprit, but don’t move plants abruptly from too shady to very bright conditions. Move the plant gradually to brighter conditions or you may scorch the foliage. Some species in the cattleya alliance grow in nearly full sun in their native habitats, although most of the commonly cultivated species and hybrids prefer just slightly shadier conditions than this. Let the foliage color be your guide to the amount of light necessary for good growth and flowering. As a general guide, cattleyas want very bright shade, with some sunlight early or late in the day. Temperature Although Cattleyas come from the tropics where the sunlight is hot and intense, most species are found at fairly high altitudes where the air is cool and moist, particularly in the morning and at night. The temperature requirements for Cattleyas are daytime temperatures somewhere between 21°C to 27°C and night temperatures between 12.8°C to 15.6°C. Higher daytime temperatures encourage faster growth, although if you plan to keep your orchid in higher temperatures you will have to remember to maintain higher humidity conditions, more air movement, as well as more frequent waterings. Watering Improper watering, both under- and over-, leads to the death of Cattleyas, than any other single cause. There are two aspects of proper watering to consider: when and how. Simply summarized, cattleyas should be watered only after the potting medium has become “dry.” Frequency of watering will vary. Once a week is a good base to begin, remembering that some factors will speed up drying of the potting medium, others will slow it down. A lot of sunshine, heat, good air movement, active growth, a large plant in a small pot, low humidity, the type of potting medium (such as bark, gravel, tree fern chunks, etc.), windy weather and the like all contribute to faster drying and, consequently, increased frequency of water. Conversely, high humidity, dark, cold, cloudy or rainy weather, large pots, inactive plants (that is, not in active growth), tightly packed potting medium, little air movement and similar circumstances will slow the process of drying and hence decrease the frequency of watering. Note that some of these factors affect the entire collection of plants, other affect only certain individual plants. Watch each plant carefully, consider each by itself. Each beginner must learn for themselves but remember that plants will recover much more rapidly from underwatering and it is best to err on the dry side, following the rule, when in doubt, don't water. Do not soak your plants in a bucket of water. Should one of the plants have a disease or insect infestation, all those soaked in the same water after it may well become infected. Humidity Cattleyas do best when humidity ranges from 50% to 80%. Therefore, except in areas where natural humidity is quite high, or during cold, cloudy or rainy weather, it is important to add moisture to the growing environment, especially during the day. This can be accomplished in a number of ways. Using a Humidity Tray is one of the best ways. These trays are nothing more than a water-holding tray filled with gravel. The gravel-filled trays are filled with water to a level just below the surface. To prevent plants sitting on constantly wet gravel the plants are placed on small saucers or pieces of plastic or metal grid placed on top of the trays. A plump lead pseudobulb indicates a well-hydrated plant. In the greenhouse, the humidity is best increased by use of a humidifier. Where natural humidity is high or where humidification maintains a high degree of humidity, increased air movement is essential to prevent stagnant air and the development of diseases. Good ventilation or the use of fans is recommended. Blooming Most cattleya orchids produce one new flush of growth annually, and each new pseudobulb should produce flowers the same growing season, often in late summer or winter. Some of the hybrids might produce two ​blooms annually. Depending on the species, they may produce just a few blossoms or bunches of smaller, waxy flowers. New flower buds are protected by a thin sheath that emerges from the center of the leaf.​ If Cattleyas don't re-bloom, it's generally a light level issue. Growth Cycle Most species cattleyas have relatively distinct growing and resting phases during the annual cycle. While the plants are actively growing, they should be fed and watered regularly. We fertilize weekly during the growing season, and cut back on both ­fertilizer and water during the shorter, cooler days in winter. Hybrids in this group, however, may or may not show a distinct growing/resting pattern. Some do stop growing and rest in the winter, some do not. Learn to recognize the signs of growth and the signs of resting, and care for your plants according to their needs during these parts of the cycle. The resting phase may last a few weeks or a few months. Fertilizer In “captivity”, cattleyas do best with supplemental fertilizing. The best fertilizer depends on the potting medium you use. For mostly inert potting materials (Coconut Husk, Charcoal, lava rock, perlite), we recommend a balanced fertilizer with ­micronutrients. Overfeeding, in cattleyas, can lead to loss of roots and consequent death of the plant. To a lesser degree, when feeding a well-rooted plant, overfeeding can result in the production of vegetative growth instead of flowers, sometimes resulting in blind sheaths. In feeding, it is better to err on the side of too little than on the side of too much. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative weeks (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative weeks (14 Days) Potting , Media and Propagation Potting is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium starts to break down and drain poorly. Before repotting in a new pot, you should always trim away the damaged roots with a sterile cutting tool. The most common potting media are still based more or less on chopped fir bark although more open media like charcoal, coconut husk or inorganic media like expanded clay pellets and lava rock may be a better choices in very humid hot areas of the country. The choice is predominantly a personal one and based on whatever gives good results for the grower. To pot a Cattleya plant, it should first be cleaned of old roots, decayed medium and debris. The new potting medium should be moistened before use if possible. This is again more or less a personal choice but soaking the potting medium before use helps to reduce the amount of dust and it's easier for beginners to determine when to water when they start with moist media. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Cattleyas can be divided once the orchid has bloomed and new growth is starting to show. Each division needs at least four growths in order to do well on its own. After dividing the orchid it is imperative to keep the plants in a humid area while to roots begin to grow. “ As Adaptable, there is no Single Best Potting Medium” Pests and Other Cattleya Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Cattleyas are common because of the high levels of humidity they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link

General Information Vandas are native to Southeast Asia. In their native habitat, Vanda orchid plants hang from trees in nearly soilless media. It is important to mimic this condition as much as possible when growing Vanda orchid. Care of Vanda orchids is simple, provided you remember a few key items regarding the orchid’s preferences. Once you have the right growing situation, you can become skilled at how to grow Vanda orchids and enjoy large colorful blooms every few months. The family of Vanda orchids is all epiphytic, which means the plants cling to tree bark or hand from cracks in cliffs and rocky areas. This means their roots are in relatively little soil, just whatever organic matter the crevasse or crack collected over time. Most varieties prefer bright light and warmth as well as a reasonable degree of humidity. Vanda orchid plants bloom several times a year with 1 to 4 inch blooms in a host of colors. Plants range in size from miniatures to huge flora several feet tall. Light Light is a crucial factor in blooming most vandaceous plants. There are two types of vandas: strap-leaved, and terete. The first type has broader, flat leaves, while terete types have round, pencil-shaped leaves. Terete types need full sun, and are best grown in high-light climates. In a greenhouse, give the plants about 25 to 35 percent shade, less in winter if overcast. Leaves should be a medium green, not dark green. In warm, bright climates, you can grow any type of Vanda outside (if warm) with partial shade for strap-leaved types and semi-teretes (especially in midday in summer) or inside (when cold) in a bright, south window. In climates where winters are overcast, try Ascocendas. Grow them outside in summer and in full sun inside during the winter. Be careful to acclimate plants to avoid burn. Generally Vandas require bright light but generally do not thrive in full sunlight. They can acclimate to full sun, but these plants are generally washed out and not as healthy as those grown under a light shade cloth to take the edge off strong sunlight. Temperature Vandas require warm temperatures except for vanda coerulea and some of its hybrids. A minimum night temperature of 55° F is recommended. Optimum temperatures are 15° to 22° C at night, and a maximum of 35° C during the day. Warmer temperatures mean faster growth, which must be balanced with higher humidity, air movement, and increased water and fertilizer. Days should be warm and humid for optimum plant growth. The only real exception to this is the Vanda Coerulea, one of the few true blue orchids, which can handle cold temperatures better than many of its cousins. Watering Vandas are occasionally grown in plastic pots with sphagnum moss and orchid media, but this is a far-from-ideal situation. Instead, most growers prefer to grow Vandas in slotted baskets, where their roots are free to dangle toward the ground. Plants grown like this require a great deal of water. Water should be applied copiously when the plants are growing, but the roots must dry quickly. In periods of high temperatures, Vandas might need to be watered twice a day. When watering a Vanda, first soak the plant until the white or silvery roots turn color, then wait a few minutes before again saturating the plant. Overall, the plant should be under the spray for up to 8 minutes. Water sparingly in the winter or during cloudy weather. Seriously dehydrated Vandas can be floated in a bucket of water (just put the whole plant in) for a while to rehydrate them. Humidity Try to maintain 65% and above. Humidity of 80 percent is ideal. In tropical climates this may be easy to obtain. In a greenhouse, this is easier to provide by using an evaporative cooler. Make your own evaporative cooler by placing a bed of gravel or pebbles directly underneath the roots and fill it with water. Make sure the roots does not reach the tray and sunlight does the rest. Air movement must be strong. Blooming Vandas will bloom throughout the year, depending on their growing conditions. Healthy, happy plants with plenty of access to light, warmth, and moisture will bloom at any time. Vandas bloom from spikes that emerge in a predictable pattern from between leaves. The flower spikes have multiple flowers, depending on the plant, and the flowers will stay open for a matter of weeks. Feeding Vandas are heavy feeders, and well-fed plants bloom better. During the growing season, fertilize weekly with a liquid-based, weak fertilizer. Plants that are grown in plastic pots can be fertilized with controlled-release fertilizer pellets in addition to the liquid-based fertilizer. Fertilize only over roots or substrate. Recommended Fertilizers: Balanced Fertilizer for Growth: 19-19-19 (NPK) – 2 grams per litre of water – Spray once in every alternative week (14 Days) High-Phosphorus Fertilizer for Blooming: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per litre of water – Spray on every alternative week (14 Days) Potting, Media and Propagation Vandas are big, robust plants that will quickly outgrow most containers. They do best in situations where the large aerial roots are allowed to meander through the air or grasp onto a substrate. Large Vandas might not need repotting at all, as they will continue to grow beyond the edge of the basket. However, if required repot every 2 years in spring. After repotting, keep the plant a bit on the dry side for the first couple of weeks as this allows any cracked roots to heal. Vandas prefer clay pots as they breathe better than plastic. If you notice vanda roots turning brown or mushy, this indicates age or rot. Trim these bad roots off the orchid, leaving only healthy green or white roots. Alternatively, cut off the dead roots at the bottom and re-basket or rehang the healthy top portion of the orchid. This is also a good time to divide your vanda orchid, if you want to grow more. When you see three or more roots growing from your orchid, cut between two of them to divide the vanda in late spring or early summer. “ Vandas are Best Grown in Open Baskets without Media” Alternative Planting Methods If you're growing your vanda orchid outside, you can tie the roots to a tree branch with cotton string, which decomposes over the course of about a year, the same amount of time it takes for orchids to attach their roots to the tree permanently. Another option that works inside the house as well as outdoors is attaching the roots to a cork slab and hanging it on a wall, or simply mounting the orchid on a wire hanger. Pests and Other Vanda Related Problems Fungal and Bacterial Diseases of Vandas are common because of the high levels of humidity they need to survive. Fungal agents cause problems like root rot, leaf spots, leaf blights and spots on flowers. *External Link